Take Two: 2023 edition

It’s been a slow sewing season for me as I’ve had back to back illnesses in addition to some back and hip problems I’ve had to sort out. I have managed to make a few things though, I just haven’t had the energy to show them off. I was not able to finish my button shorts that I had cut out before the weather got too cold, so I thought I would go straight to my fall and winter sewing projects. Both happen to be re-makes of other projects I made years ago and tried to improve. I’m not sure I quite got it right this time, but these garments do work better than what I originally made.

The first is the Crescent skirt by Sewaholic. I made this skirt back in 2015 and I loved it. I used to wear it all the time to work. But I made it a bit on the big side and then I ended up losing weight and wasn’t able to wear it any more. I still have it around because I was really proud of how it came out and I just don’t have the heart to throw it out. I would like to give it a good home if there was someone who would want it, I just haven’t gotten around to figuring out how to do that. This first attempt was a size 12 and when I measured I decided I would need a size 10, which is what I cut out back in the spring.

When I finally had time to sew this I realized that this size would also be too big, so I cut it down to a size 8, which seems to be right for my body at this time. The first time I made this, I used corduroy so I knew this was a great fabric for this project. This version used a sparkly navy blue corduroy which I just love.

I also used bound seams for this one as well, since it seemed to work well the first time. I still have a whole roll of that Hug Snug stuff left so maybe I need to use this more often as I love the way it presses when enclosing the seam allowances.

Pockets too!

This skirt is a pretty fast sew. Although compared to other skirts, this one does have a few more pieces to sew up, especially on the waistband, which made more seams to bind. The only part I am not a huge fan of is you are supposed to gather the front and back. I always have trouble getting these even and not bunched up too much in one place. It’s hard to sew the seams without the fabric folding in which makes it look a bit unprofessional. I think this is mainly because I used corduroy which is a tougher fabric to gather. I think this skirt might look more streamlined if it wasn’t so full with the gathers, so I may look into adjusting this if I make this again. It still looks very nice and a great addition to my work wardrobe for the fall or even winter.

The next project was the Whistler Pull-Over by Love Notions, which was a remake of a sweater I didn’t even blog about. The original was a project I finished during the early days of the pandemic, using some great sweatshirt fabric I got in Amsterdam. I was so disappointed when I had sewed it up and realized that despite not making the “tunic” version, the top was waaaaay too long. I tried to shorten it myself after the fact, but it never quite sit right and I’m sure it’s because I didn’t shorten it the way you are supposed to on the actual pattern. Plus it was hard to figure out with the way the pockets were constructed as part of the front piece.

From the tutorial…the front is constructed in an interesting way.

Also the front seam was always a big crooked which always got on my nerves when I wore this.

I knew I could do a better job if I tried again, so I decided to use up some cool sweater knit I got on clearance at a fabric store in NYC. The fabric kind of has these fun dots in them that remind me of funfetti cake so I decided to accessorize with some fun pink buttons to give it some color.

Sewing up the front on this with the pocket panel flipping up to sew to the side front pieces were kind of confusing when looking at the drawings in the pattern. I honestly couldn’t understand what they were telling me to do and it even looked like I was supposed to sew up one section separately instead of sewing the whole section together. I didn’t actually get it until I watched the tutorial video mentioned in the pattern instructions, so I would recommend watching this before starting to sew up this section.

Using my serger, this also sewed up really fast, especially if you opt for using the bottom band instead of hemming. The drawings can be a bit deceiving on this pattern, which also caused the front button piece to not be the right width, but all in all it’s a pretty well written pattern. The videos definitely help. I think this one does look a bit better than my first attempt, although it’s far from perfect.

I finished this just in time for Thanksgiving

I also had a near tragedy trying to finish off a seam with the serger where the fabric bunched up and the blade cut a big hole in the front panel. I had to move the seam to fix that hole and so it still seems a bit crooked, just in a different way the first one is crooked. Still, it will work as a comfortable winter top that I’m excited to wear as the air outside gets more of a chill.

So what’s next? Well I’m still deciding what I want to make next. I’ve been wanting to start on my bomber jacket and I was happy to hear that bombers are still in style this winter. I’ve been procrastinating in anticipation of the effort it will take, but I don’t want another season to go by again. I also have another sundress cut out that I’d like to work on and I have an idea for a circle skirt that I just washed fabric for. I also want to start making some bags – as you can see I’ve been having trouble concentrating on a project which is stopping me from actually finishing anything. Hopefully the rest of this month as I focus on healing, I can settle down and figure it all out.

Tying up loose ends

In order to keep my momentum going this season, I go by the rule of ABC – Always Be Cutting. I need a steady stream of cut projects so I always have something to work on. This summer I was cutting new projects out when I could, even before I finished my current project. I’m wondering if it’s just to distract myself.

Even as I struggle to get projects completed, I decided to cut out some shorts out of some scrap I had, to test out another pattern for myself.

I’ve been away from my blog for awhile. The month of September was a blur. I went on a pretty long vacation to the Azores, so obviously I was not sewing. When I came back, it was pretty hard to get back into the groove of things. However, I was able to finish my 2nd tie front shirt, McCalls 8620, in a fun lobster print. I finished it just in time to take on my vacation and was able to wear it a few times out.

The view from our hotel room on Pico Island in the Azores. This ended up being the perfect shirt to wear out to dinner on those warm nights.

I think making the first one with some practice fabric really helped me get this one right. I ended up shortening the shirt as I didn’t really care for the length on the first one. However, when this shirt is tied up, it does feel a bit short on the sides, so I just need to be aware what pants I wear with it. I like the fabric a lot though, and this shirt definitely works best with a softer shirting cotton than the quilting-type cotton I used for the first one. I was also able to perfect the collar. I had to adjust the size on the facing section on the front of the shirt so that the front came out a bit to a point on the “lapels” and was able to be tucked away more cleanly on the inside.

Pretty much perfection! I Love the way the collar came out on this. Finally, maybe my collar curse is coming to an end.

The other issue I ran into was when I ordered the buttons online, only half the quantity came and they were unable to send me the right number in time. Luckily I found some black buttons in my stash – they were a little smaller than what the pattern wanted, but it was fine for this shirt. Unfortunately, I think these buttons might actually be navy blue, but they are pretty dark so it’s hard to tell. I think it worked fine, at least my eyes can’t really tell.

I’m not sure if I mentioned before, but I love this tool to get the buttonholes even on my shirts. Because I had adjusted the length on the shirt, I needed to make sure I still had enough fabric on the bottom for the tie in the front, therefore I had to adjust where the buttonholes would go. This gage ensures that no matter where I place the top or bottom button, I can figure out the rest of the buttonholes evenly without having to measure each individually. It’s definitely a tool that has exceeded its investment.

Even though September was a bust for sewing projects, I did manage to get some great fabric while I was on vacation. I actually found fabric that had specific images from the Azores, so I had to buy it. I’m thinking this would be good for a housewares type project or possibly a bag. I also got this great sportswear fabric that was very colorful and some baby wale corduroy with a print that reminded me of the decorations on the churches out there. I also got a few pieces from a store on Terceira island that seemed to be going out of business. I got some knit and stretch denim for a really good price. I love getting fabric on vacation, because whatever I make always reminds me of that trip.

Now that I’m back to my regular schedule, I’m super excited to dive right into my sewing again. I didn’t get to everything I wanted for this summer, so some of these projects may need to be put aside for now. I did end up sewing up a starter sundress and I think I’ve worked out what the fit should be on my next one. The hardest part was the straps and figuring out how short to make them so they didn’t fall off my shoulder. Unfortunately as soon as I got the straps where I wanted them, the fabric must have had a flaw because it had frayed really bad from where it connected to the bodice. There is no way to fix this without taking apart the whole bodice, so I may be trying to sew it up by hand. Very disheartening that this may not end up being wearable, as I almost got the fit right. I spent way too long on it as is, because I ended up sewing the middle section on upside down and had to take the whole thing apart (I may get into that more on another post).

But with fall coming up, I’m also finally working on this corduroy skirt that I had cut out at the beginning of the year. I made this skirt before in a size 12, but it got way too big for me that it’s basically unwearable (and I’m even looking for a new home for it). I cut this out at a size 10, but on further examination of the sizing, I realized I should have cut out a size 8, so I trimmed it down a size. Let’s hope I don’t gain any weight this holiday season!