Winter successes and failures

I had a rather unfortunate day today, trying to figure out pocket welts on the Seamwork’s Larkin Bomber jacket. This is a time sensitive project, since I’m trying to get this done before winter is over, so losing a whole day with no progress really depressed me. For the first welt, I got confused at where I was supposed to stitch because the directions and drawings were not clear to me. Then the second side, I figured out what I did wrong, but somehow, it still ended up a puckered mess. I cut out all new welts and jacket fronts (and pockets) to start all over, but all I could do was draw the markings on the fabric. Maybe it’s for the best I take a break and take my time next time.

I have had some success lately with other items I’m sewing, so maybe I can’t be too hard on myself. My favorite is this new circle skirt I made from the Veronika pattern from Meghan Nielsen. The fabric is Dutch wax print I got from this small fabric store in Lowell, Massachusetts. The color is really something and I am hoping the weather gets a little warmer so I can wear this outside before spring. I have never made a circle skirt before, mainly because I never seem to have enough fabric. This pattern was very easy to put together, but the pieces are quite large, so laying it out on the fabric took some time. I was worried about hemming such a circular piece, but it ended up being easier than I thought. I think this is mainly because the fabric is so easy to work with and pressed so nicely.

Circle skirts are pretty flattering, so I’m really excited to wear this. Some of my other winter projects have already gotten some wear.

One is this buttoned shirt from Vogue # 9227 (view A). I made view B a while back and I was excited to revisit the pattern. The fabric is a little sheer, so I do worry about the durability, but I do think it looks nice. I like the way the stripes fall and the buttons on the top are really cute.

Even though I put interfacing in the collar, it’s still a bit flimsy with this delicate fabric.

I think I prefer the collar not buttoned up. It falls a lot better.

Not much to say on this one, it sewed up pretty fast. It was interesting sewing up the hem because of the mitered corners I had to create for the front pieces. The directions were pretty clear on where to stitch to get this clean look.

Another winter wardrobe piece that I got to show off at the office was this sweater dress from a vintage Butterick pattern, #5985. Getting the zipper right was some trial and error, but it was not too much trouble. I was also shocked to find out that the jumpers from this pattern were nowhere to be found. Maybe it was made known to me, when I bought it, I can’t remember (the note on the front is mine after finding out). I’m not sure where I got this pattern, I think at a flea market so I can’t really complain. The dress I made is actually the garment underneath the jumper pictured in view B. Even though I was disappointed I couldn’t make the jumper, this pattern did work well for a regular sweater dress.

This dress is so comfortable and definitely warm enough for these cold windy days we’ve been experiencing. I probably need to get a belt for this one, to give it a little more shape. But I also like it as it is. I’m mostly impressed by how well I was able to match the fabric on the sides back and even the sleeves.

It’s good to remind myself that I am able to complete some wearable pieces. Today was so disheartening when I couldn’t get to a good place on my jacket, but I’m hoping once I can figure out the secret to these welts, it will all just fall into place. I’m thankful for the ability to try again…and for extra fabric.

Twirling into spring, with my Veronika skirt!

Take Two: 2023 edition

It’s been a slow sewing season for me as I’ve had back to back illnesses in addition to some back and hip problems I’ve had to sort out. I have managed to make a few things though, I just haven’t had the energy to show them off. I was not able to finish my button shorts that I had cut out before the weather got too cold, so I thought I would go straight to my fall and winter sewing projects. Both happen to be re-makes of other projects I made years ago and tried to improve. I’m not sure I quite got it right this time, but these garments do work better than what I originally made.

The first is the Crescent skirt by Sewaholic. I made this skirt back in 2015 and I loved it. I used to wear it all the time to work. But I made it a bit on the big side and then I ended up losing weight and wasn’t able to wear it any more. I still have it around because I was really proud of how it came out and I just don’t have the heart to throw it out. I would like to give it a good home if there was someone who would want it, I just haven’t gotten around to figuring out how to do that. This first attempt was a size 12 and when I measured I decided I would need a size 10, which is what I cut out back in the spring.

When I finally had time to sew this I realized that this size would also be too big, so I cut it down to a size 8, which seems to be right for my body at this time. The first time I made this, I used corduroy so I knew this was a great fabric for this project. This version used a sparkly navy blue corduroy which I just love.

I also used bound seams for this one as well, since it seemed to work well the first time. I still have a whole roll of that Hug Snug stuff left so maybe I need to use this more often as I love the way it presses when enclosing the seam allowances.

Pockets too!

This skirt is a pretty fast sew. Although compared to other skirts, this one does have a few more pieces to sew up, especially on the waistband, which made more seams to bind. The only part I am not a huge fan of is you are supposed to gather the front and back. I always have trouble getting these even and not bunched up too much in one place. It’s hard to sew the seams without the fabric folding in which makes it look a bit unprofessional. I think this is mainly because I used corduroy which is a tougher fabric to gather. I think this skirt might look more streamlined if it wasn’t so full with the gathers, so I may look into adjusting this if I make this again. It still looks very nice and a great addition to my work wardrobe for the fall or even winter.

The next project was the Whistler Pull-Over by Love Notions, which was a remake of a sweater I didn’t even blog about. The original was a project I finished during the early days of the pandemic, using some great sweatshirt fabric I got in Amsterdam. I was so disappointed when I had sewed it up and realized that despite not making the “tunic” version, the top was waaaaay too long. I tried to shorten it myself after the fact, but it never quite sit right and I’m sure it’s because I didn’t shorten it the way you are supposed to on the actual pattern. Plus it was hard to figure out with the way the pockets were constructed as part of the front piece.

From the tutorial…the front is constructed in an interesting way.

Also the front seam was always a big crooked which always got on my nerves when I wore this.

I knew I could do a better job if I tried again, so I decided to use up some cool sweater knit I got on clearance at a fabric store in NYC. The fabric kind of has these fun dots in them that remind me of funfetti cake so I decided to accessorize with some fun pink buttons to give it some color.

Sewing up the front on this with the pocket panel flipping up to sew to the side front pieces were kind of confusing when looking at the drawings in the pattern. I honestly couldn’t understand what they were telling me to do and it even looked like I was supposed to sew up one section separately instead of sewing the whole section together. I didn’t actually get it until I watched the tutorial video mentioned in the pattern instructions, so I would recommend watching this before starting to sew up this section.

Using my serger, this also sewed up really fast, especially if you opt for using the bottom band instead of hemming. The drawings can be a bit deceiving on this pattern, which also caused the front button piece to not be the right width, but all in all it’s a pretty well written pattern. The videos definitely help. I think this one does look a bit better than my first attempt, although it’s far from perfect.

I finished this just in time for Thanksgiving

I also had a near tragedy trying to finish off a seam with the serger where the fabric bunched up and the blade cut a big hole in the front panel. I had to move the seam to fix that hole and so it still seems a bit crooked, just in a different way the first one is crooked. Still, it will work as a comfortable winter top that I’m excited to wear as the air outside gets more of a chill.

So what’s next? Well I’m still deciding what I want to make next. I’ve been wanting to start on my bomber jacket and I was happy to hear that bombers are still in style this winter. I’ve been procrastinating in anticipation of the effort it will take, but I don’t want another season to go by again. I also have another sundress cut out that I’d like to work on and I have an idea for a circle skirt that I just washed fabric for. I also want to start making some bags – as you can see I’ve been having trouble concentrating on a project which is stopping me from actually finishing anything. Hopefully the rest of this month as I focus on healing, I can settle down and figure it all out.

Take Two for 2022: One last skirt

Patterns:

  • Juniper Skirt by Mood Fabrics
  • McCalls 6402

Okay, I know it’s already 2023, but I did happen to finish my last skirt just under the wire on December 31st, so I’m counting this as part of 2022.

This is the story of a fabric that I just couldn’t tame and multiple bad pattern choices. We start back earlier this year when I scored this rather unusual looking fabric with a designed I just loved. I knew I had to make a skirt out of it, but I just couldn’t quite figure out the style that would work for it. The fabric felt a bit stiff, until I washed it and realized it had more of a flowy quality than I first realized. To this day I have no idea what this fabric is – I bought it at a discount off a remnant table. I’m thinking it’s probably a type of polyester. I would never have predicted how hard it would be to sew with. Despite the fabric being somewhat thin, it was still difficult to get a needle through. I opted for a microtex needle in my machine, which worked well enough.

When I first saw the Juniper Skirt pattern from Mood Fabrics, I thought I had found the perfect match. I just needed to get some lining, but what do you use for lining when you have no idea what the main fabric even is? I decided on some black rayon twill that I could easily order online. I figured it was also synthetic material, so shrinking wouldn’t be an issue. All in all this seems to be the only correct choice I made as this did make a good lining which gave the skirt the right amount of structure. This was the first time using a free pattern from Mood Fabrics – they seem to make a lot of good ones and I had been curious to try one of them out. The directions on the website seemed easy enough to follow with detailed photos, however there were a few times I felt lost or that the directions were not complete. Where I think I went wrong is when I had to sandwich the overskirt between the front and back panels. I thought I had figured it all out, but somehow the skirt just didn’t line up right and to this day I’m not even sure why it’s off. I just know I’m unable to wear it as it is just crooked. It was one of my most disappointing moments in sewing history as I thought the style with the front flap seemed to fit with what I had pictured for this skirt. I was so baffled as to where it all went wrong, that I opted not to try again even though I had enough fabric for a second skirt. I was afraid it was the fault of the pattern and I would just end up wasting more fabric.

The overskirt section does not line up right when this skirt is on and I couldn’t figure out a way to fix it where it would fit properly.

The one thing I liked about this pattern was there was no hem – the lining was cut a little shorter than the actual skirt and then you sew the lining to the bottom of the skirt. When the lining is lifted towards the waistband, the main skirt gets folded over, which creates a clean finish with no hemming required. I liked this look so much I decided that whatever pattern I chose for my next attempt, would use this method instead of a traditional hem.

I didn’t want to give up on this skirt, so I was on the lookout for another pattern. One with maybe a similar style. I found the McCalls pattern in my stash and thought it had potential. I had wanted to make view E as I thought that front drape would look similar to what I had in mind for this fabric. However the more I looked into it, I could not figure out a way to line the skirt with that pattern. It would take skills I do not have in order to hack it to create the hemline I wanted. So then I looked at view A. This version was lined and so I could attempt my lining trick with the hem. And I figured that maybe the diagonal panel design might actually look cool with this geometric type design. For some reason I had some trouble understanding this pattern as well and the pieces didn’t really line up the way I think they should have. The results were…well the only good think I can say about the skirt is that it fits me. It tends to bunch up a bit when I move, so I’m not sure it will work as a wearable skirt. At least not one that I will want to wear often. I did end up getting the hem I wanted with this, however I do wonder if my changes to the pattern is another reason why this skirt doesn’t fall correctly. On a good note, it is one of the only skirts I’ve made where the waist is the right size and tapers in appropriately, so maybe I am getting better at something from this exercise.

In conclusion, my second skirt ended up being better, but I still didn’t get what I wanted out of this fabric. And I’m not sure if the problem lay with the fabric, which I admit was more difficult to work with than I first thought, or the patterns themselves. The confusion I had is probably on me – my lack of experience with sewing may be a main factor in why I couldn’t get these right. It doesn’t feel great to end this year on a failure (or at least a non-success), but I guess that’s life sometimes.

2022 is over, but I probably will still attempt some do-over projects in this coming year, since I love improving on stuff I’ve already made. I am still mulling over what my focus for this year will be and I think I have something so stay tuned! This past year has mostly been pretty triumphant with my sewing projects and I am looking forward to continued success into the next year. Happy New Year to my readers and hope to see you in 2023!

A little pleated: The Southwest inspired skirt

Pattern: Simplicity 1109, view E

When I first bought this fabric, years ago on my trip to New Mexico, I knew that I wanted to make a short-ish skirt with it. It took me awhile to get around to it, but it’s finally finished. I thought having a nice pleated skirt would work with the fabric and I just happen to have this nice Simplicity pattern. I liked the look of the skirt with multiple pleats, but when I asked around, the vote went to the skirt with one pleat down the middle. Well, I thought, at least it would be easier to make and would require a lot less pressing.

There is not much else to say as this was a pretty simple pattern. The fabric I used has embroidery on it, not a print, and I believe it gives it that southwestern look. The skirt does require a decorative zipper, since the zipper is on the outside of the garment. The instructions on the pattern was actually very easy to follow, which was good since I’ve never installed a zipper this way. I always feel the big 4 patterns don’t know how to explain regular zippers correctly.

The front pleat was also very simple. I basted the sides so that the pleat would be more crisp, and then removed the stitching after the waistband was installed. It came out pretty good, although one side seems more pressed than the other.


All in all, the skirt came out really nice. Something I will definitely wear more of when the weather is nicer.

Gray mid-weight sweater

Winter is…over

Patterns:

  • McCall’s M6796, View DMcCalls 6796
  • Vogue V8956, View C

Since it is now July, you would think that the fact it’s not winter any more would be obvious to me. It is, but I realized that with all the craziness in the last six months, I forgot to blog about some of my winter projects. I’m particularly proud of both of these garments, and not just because I actually completed them in the season they were intended for, but because they both came out really nice. The sweater I am most proud of, since I’ve gotten a lot of compliments on it and was able to wear it quite a bit, even as winter was thawing out a bit.

Gray mid-weight sweaterI am especially proud of the purely decorative buttons on the collar – I definitely chose the right ones for top.

Close up of collar
The lines on this really look as close to perfect as ever. I think this lightweight sweater knit was really the perfect fabric for this project.

This garment got a lot of wear this past season, since it matched a lot of things and Continue reading “Winter is…over”

skirt front

Rosari skirt: Super skirt of the 70’s

Pattern: Rosari Skirt by Pauline Alice, midi length

I totally love the skirts of the 70’s, so when I bought this unusual-looking corduroy, I knew I wanted something inspired by that decade. I actually bought a number of patterns with similar themes – A-line with buttons up the front. However, when I saw this pattern, I knew it was the one I wanted to try. I really liked the pockets and I’ve also been digging these indie patterns lately. It seemed like the one to try. This is a pdf pattern, which I’m still not loving, but I am getting used to the process of taping the sheets together. I just hate that it doesn’t fold up into a nice little envelope like the paper patterns, but I have made things a little better by storing them in those larger size manila mailing envelopes.

plaid corduroyThis pattern has a lot of options to choose from. There are 2 different lengths and about 4 different pocket styles. I went with pocket C, which was an inverted pleat patch pocket and flap. I cut two of these out, but when I read the directions, it seems that I Continue reading “Rosari skirt: Super skirt of the 70’s”

Another day, another knit skirt

Pattern: McCall’s M6966McCalls M6966

I’ve seen so many cute long knit skirts lately worn by people at work.  So I thought, why not make my own!  I had just bought myself a serger – exciting news.  So this was the perfect project to test out my skills.

Not much to say about this one.  I had used this pattern before, but this time I decided to try view C, but with the yoke I had constructed for view D.  It’s pretty basic, with just a back panel and a front panel, and the yoke pieces to form a waistband.

IMG_3010

I did start to sew up the waist incorrectly, sewing where the elastic is supposed to fit in the wrong place.   Continue reading “Another day, another knit skirt”

Crescent Skirt

Coming back from leave…with a leaf skirt!

Pattern: Sewaholic Crescent Skirt

New Skills Acquired:

  • Bound seams

Well I don’t know what happened.  I got super busy in August and September and put my sewing on hold. Then all of a sudden it was December and I hadn’t gone near my blog, not even to read posts from my favorite bloggers.  It’s not like I haven’t been sewing – I have been working on projects here and there when I find a spare weekend.  In fact this skirt I am writing about was actually made in September and I had even started a post about it.  Well these things happen.  Sometimes you get so focused on the constant making that you don’t take a step back to write and reflect on what you have accomplished.  I felt so behind in the projects I wanted to finish this summer that I kept pushing through and I let my laptop collect dust.  But now we return to our regularly scheduled blog post, already in progress…..

What a difference the right pattern makes!  With my last skirt a fitting failure, Continue reading “Coming back from leave…with a leaf skirt!”

I tried it! Burda style pattern

Pattern: Burda Style Flounce Skirt Mini 09/2014 #104BurdaStyle Flounce Skirt

New Skills Acquired:

  • Tracing 

I’ve been curious about Burda Style patterns for a while now, but it took me awhile to figure out what they were and where to find them.  In fact, it took me awhile to figure out this was a regularly published fashion magazine that featured the patterns to sew the clothes featured.  I somehow came across one of these patterns when I was looking for a skirt to make that would go with some plaid rayon blend I had just recently bought.  You actually can get individual pdf patterns on their website, but since I’m a bit overwhelmed with putting together a pdf pattern (have not attempted this yet!), I thought purchasing the magazine would be better for me.  Plus there would be other patterns as well!

I’m not sure what I expected when I got the magazine, but when I pulled out the pattern section…

Burda pattern pages

Yikes, it looked like an astronomy map.  How was I going find my skirt?   Continue reading “I tried it! Burda style pattern”

Striped knit skirt

Dr. Strange-seam or: How I learned to stop worrying and love the bias

Pattern: McCall’s M6966McCalls M6966

gray knit skirtstriped knit skirt

 

These skirts were inspired by the many striped knits skirts I’ve seen people wear at work. I saw this pattern online, and thought my skirt would really stand out having the stripes going in different directions (view D). Those diagonals were intimidating – there seemed to be a lot of room for error if I cut wrong.  But if I did it correctly, I would have a skirt that was not only me-made, but something you would see in stores as well!

My first attempt was a wearable muslin in a charcoal gray knit. I needed to make sure I could actually make this with bias seams before I ruined my striped material.  Turns out cutting out those pattern pieces on the bias was harder than I thought, but not for the reasons I originally thought. I bought 3 yards of fabric, thinking it was a bit excessive but safe. It worked out in the end, but if I make this again I may buy an extra half yard to avoid the cursing and the sweating. Fitting the pattern pieces so the diagonals match up perfectly took some creative adjusting, and every time I thought I had it with one piece, I adjusted for the diagonal and it would overlap another piece. Gah!

Advice: try to fit the two largest pieces first (bottom back and front) and then work your way to the next biggest. Trying to go by the picture for laying out the pattern does not work.

I tried to make sure the pieces were all going to fit before I cut, but its tough when you are cutting two pieces from the same pattern piece. These pieces were so large so I don’t think that folding the fabric would work in this case.  The good news is if you have successfully cut everything out, the hard part is over.

The rest was easy – I used my mom’s serger to sew up all the seams. This pattern is definitely one of the easiest I have attempted Continue reading “Dr. Strange-seam or: How I learned to stop worrying and love the bias”